Paindemie: so much more than a sandwich joint
By Andy Fenner
Paindemie, Kinkerstraat, Amsterdam, Netherlands
Paindemie is a tricky restaurant to review because it’s a tricky restaurant to categorise. Of course, that’s what makes it so friggin’ great—the no-holds-barred, unapologetic confidence to simply cook what they love and serve what they love.
Often when food is prepared this way – liberated from any pre-defined expectations of what it should be – something special happens. Real creativity. Real innovation. And, more often than not, real fun.
Paindemie is the ultimate example of this. On paper, it’s a sandwich joint. But how many sandwich joints do you know that serve ground goat instead of beef, for their standard burger protein of choice? And how many sandwich joints do you know that build a menu around Japanese-inspired milk bread but serve the end dish on silver trays, or alongside cardboard boxes (or both)? How many sandwich joints offer fillings of eel, truffled egg salad, curried frikandel, caviar or… boudin noir?
None. That’s how many.
It’s ballsy stuff.
Throughout this sprawling, mega-ambitious menu, there is a skill on display that could easily be applied to cooking more celebrated and/or traditional offerings. Pickling and fermenting add to a depth of flavour and sauces are considered and made with no shortcuts. The sandwiches are balanced and show an understanding of texture that would not be out of place at any of the more expected, small-plate restaurants in Amsterdam.
I mean, I should mention the decor. Part speakeasy, part Japanese subway station, part lounge, part FEBO-type-thing. It’s as wild and weird and awesome as it sounds.
The curated wine list, stellar cocktails and choice beers make it a choice not only for a quick bite, but for a date night, a hang with friends or a celebration of anything, really.
Go with an open mind. Leave with a full stomach.
Paindemie
The Space: Japanese speak easy meets Oldboy.
The Base: €60 – 70 p.p.
The Face: Cool beyond any measure of cool.
The Ace: The team recently got the attention of Michelin, but not in the way you may expect. A cheeky three-star sticker on the outside (made by Paindemie, naturally) received a legal letter. Far from apologising, Paindemie displayed their unique approach towards all things by poking even more fun at what they clearly believe to be a stuffy institution. It was hilarious to watch and summed this bunch up, perfectly.
The Veg: The Salads are worth ordering and exist as far more than an afterthought. All burger patties can also be ordered as Redefine Meat alternatives.
Opening Times: Mon-Wed 17:02-23:01, Thurs 11:59-22:56, Fri-Sat 11:58-00:57, Sun 12:03-22:54
Images from paindemie-amsterdamcom, Paindemie
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