Shipshape, sustainable & delicious at Contrast
By Andy Fenner
Ms. van Riemsdijkweg 306, 1033 RD Amsterdam, Netherlands
In a time when it’s easy to get jaded by the pretentiousness that comes with fine dining, the team behind this exciting new concept restaurant are unapologetically looking to shake things up. To start, the restaurant is on a ship.
Yeah.
I know.
A ship.
Not just a ship. A meticulously, painstakingly, lovingly restored ship. A ship inspired by the famous Richard Serra sculpture on Museumplein. A ship conceptualised and developed with massive amounts of detail and consideration. A ship boasting a mix of abstract angles and steel, resulting in a unique, contemporary space that contains a multitude of views. Once inside. It is – quite frankly – a masterpiece and if this was a story of CONTRAST the restaurant the ship would undoubtedly be one of the main characters.
Step inside and the ambition of the restaurant is clear. These guys are shooting for stars and accolades and the smooth service team, friendly and engaging front of house and mega-talented kitchen brigade are making that clear. The thing is – the food is not spoiled by that ambition, as it is so often in these types of restaurants. It remains authentic and it remains delicious. This is largely due to the fact that it is being prepared by Iñaki Bolumburu, who arrives with a serious pedigree. His Basque influence shines throughout an exciting set pescetarian (or vegetarian) menu, offering innovative combinations of ingredients, in between traditional dishes and technique. Chanterelles are served with beans and salsa verde, mussels are lifted with cumin and garlic and a fish collar is served as is without any effort of hiding the fact that a fish head is…a fish head. It’s refreshing to have a chef of this talent back it up with a philosophy that backs it up.
There are so many stories being woven into CONTRAST. One is the gallery space downstairs, allowing full creative immersion into meals and turning dinner into an experience. But another is the pirate-esque sourcing of supplies, where items are collected by the owner sailing a ship and collecting rare wines, olive oil, coffee and more from far-flung ports. Not to mention the architecture, design, sustainability and commitment to providing food that has relevance.
It’s ambitious, inspiring food, packaged in a fun, engaging and inclusive space. That just happens to be floating in a harbour.
Contrast
The Space: Fine dining with a locally sourced and sustainable pescatarian menu.
The Place: Cutting-edge, floating gallery and restaurant space in a converted ship.
The Base: €70 – €80 p.p.
The Face: Creative, expressive people looking for a unique offering.
The Ace: The group recently opened for snacks and drinks on their (breathtaking) balcony/terrace. If you are anywhere near the NDSM you should absolutely pop in.
The Veg: The entire tasting menu can be chosen as vegetarian but, even if you opt for the regular menu, the only protein will be from the ocean.
Opening Times: Thurs-Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun 12:00-17:00, Mon-Wed Closed
Images from contrast.amsterdam, Contrast
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