Authentic Mexican with Chef Zahie Téllez at Fiona
By Neil Roake
Warmoesstraat 14, 1012 JD Amsterdam, Netherlands
BOOK NOWFiona is a feminine given name of Irish origin, so it seems an odd choice for a hopping Mexican restaurant located slap-bang in the middle of the red-light district. This fictitious name starts to make sense as you make your way past the open kitchen where a trio of women are manning the pans and slinging the tacos. The renowned female chef Zahie Téllez flew in from Mexico to collaborate with Fiona’s kitchen team in creating authentic Mexican flavours and dishes that step away from overpriced tacos, bowls of nachos, and basic quesadillas that we have started to take for granted. This is all about girl power, and these women are hitting the spot!
Fiona’s aesthetic is part Tulum vacation vibe and part Mayan ruin and is a welcome respite from the weed-hunters and bar-hopping hen parties thronging outside. Personally, I only find myself heading into this district when overseas friends arrive at my door, and I take them on my signature 9 brown bar crawl! (It’s a trip!) Now that I’ve discovered Fiona’s, this would make a great place to refuel and soak up the vibes before hitting the next historic watering hole.
What I really like about Fiona’s, though, is the greetings. At least two to three people greeted us, and on the way out, an incredible four people said thank you and have a good day. It’s a friendly space, and I guess that’s a good start. Another thing I really like about Fiona’s is that it’s kind of an anytime thing. Stop in for a pre-night snack and a couple of margaritas and head out, or make it the last stop on a bar crawl, sample some gems in the area, stuff your face, and feel much better the next day. However, you can also take Fiona’s a little more seriously. Go on a date night with your “I’ve only got eyes for you” vibe and have a full Mexican blowout and tequila!
Fiona’s menu is down-to-earth with no cheesy “holy guacamole” references. The tacos are firm and sufficiently stuffed with either pulled pork, tuna, cauliflower and hummus, or chicken. The quesadillas, guacamole, pulled chicken, and pulled pork are all great choices. Or you can try some of the more unusual dishes, like the Gamba Ceviche with passion fruit puree and cucumber, or the Pulpo served with popcorn, wasabi mayonnaise, fried habanero, and cress. Our vegan tartare of mango and avocado was served with red onion and sun-dried tomatoes and was really delicious. We just needed to call for more taco chips. The empanadas are homemade (our vegetarian option was packed with gooey cheese) and served with a zingy, fresh chimichurri. These are all suitable for small plates that you can share.
Alternatively, go the whole hog and opt for the carne asada, short ribs served in poblano mole sauce with sesame seeds and coriander, salmon, grilled baby chicken, ribeye, or what we settled for, the vegan salad—a delicious combination of jackfruit, cauliflower, haricot verts, and vegan sriracha mayonnaise. I really loved the sides: baked potatoes, arroz de campo, haricot verts, and corn on the cob. All are reasonably priced and presented with finesse.
An evening at Fiona’s is a no-brainer choice if you want to pass on pretentious, overpriced tacos (who wants to pay nine euros for a single taco?) and settle in for an evening where you can up your serotonin levels and where even vegetarians will have fun. And I’m proof of the pudding. Oh, and don’t forget the Cocktails. As our friendly server ran her finger over the cocktail list, she pointed out the Paloma or the Margarita. Both, she said, contain tequila, which is always a good place to start!
Fiona
The Place: Viva la Fiesta! A welcoming respite from the busy red-light district!
The Space: It’s a little bit vacay, a little bit OTT, but its design is considered. Or what about grabbing a seat street-side and watching the carnival of people pass by? Let the fun begin.
The Base: Quesadillas start at €9.5 and soft tacos at €11. Expect €30-40 per head.
The Face: Non-stop happy shiny people. A lot of tourists escaping the streets and a lot of twosomes looking directly into each other’s eyes between sips of their Palomas.
The Ace: Zahie Téllez, a celebrated Mexican chef, television host, and cookbook author, has collaborated with Fiona in Amsterdam to bring authentic Mexican flavours to their menus. Her work combines classic culinary traditions with modern techniques, making her a prominent figure in promoting Mexican gastronomy globally.
The Veg: There’s a taco, a quesadilla, vegan tartare, and empanadas. Plus, all the sides are rocking for veg-heads. Enough to satisfy without the meat.
Opening Times: Mon-Fri 17:00-00:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-00:00.
Images from fiona.restaurant, Fiona & Neil Roake
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