Saké & smokin’ good eats at Hakata Senpachi
By Neil Roake
Wielingenstraat 16, 1078 KK Amsterdam, Netherlands
BOOK NOWPiss Alley, a famous narrow street near Shinjuku Station in Tokyo, would probably have been my hangout in the late ’40s – an illegal drinking den with rustic bars serving cheap drinks, charcoal-grilled yakitori to the local working class, and a whole lot of mayhem. I made a pit stop on a trip to Japan to see if this nostalgic glimpse into Tokyo’s past still existed. Despite a fire in 1999 that razed it to the ground, the Tokyo government rebuilt it to its original state, and I was not disappointed. A red lantern outside one of these drinking dens typically signifies that the establishment is open and is commonly used by izakayas (Japanese drinking dens). A large red lantern greets you outside Hakati Senpachi, Amsterdam’s answer to an authentic-as-you-can-get izakaya. It was open for business… No need to burn a flight ticket to Japan.
Amsterdam’s weather is notoriously fickle (but let’s not linger here), but even if the sun was, by a miracle, shining, I would walk straight past the outdoor terrace seating and belly my way into the guts of this restaurant, and sit close to the hibachi grill. This is the smoke-spewing mother-ship of Hakati, with the tattooed grill master theatrically twirling skewers over open flames and basting them to perfection. Hakata is known for using high-quality Binchotan charcoal for grilling. Binchotan is activated charcoal traditionally made from Ubame oak and is prized for its clean-burning properties, high heat, and ability to impart a subtle, smoky flavour to food without producing a lot of smoke. The humble chicken is served inside out; chicken stomach (zuri), skin, and wings are skewered, basted, and grilled, as are more expensive parts such as Negima (chicken thigh with spring onion) and Tsukune (chicken meatballs). Not into chicken? Try the unagi (eel), king prawns, or the Irish beef, teriyaki style. From my perspective with the meaty/seafood plates speeding past, it looks like the hibachi is a honey pot for most diners.
So then what are two vegetarians doing pitching up at this carnivore’s carnival? Well, vegetarians also like hibachi too, you know. Our choice was limited to the shiitake mushroom, well, a single shiitake, skewered, and a few pieces of zucchini basted in aged miso. Yes, I know, it does not sound that great – haha – but god damn, they were delicious. I guess it does help that Hakati literally buzzes with energy and the lively chatter of patrons, so much so that I can’t remember a soundtrack – was there one? Also refreshing is that this 20-year-old establishment has not succumbed to any Blade Runner-ish revamps and I saw no one taking pics of their food – who has time for that nonsense? The avocado seaweed salad was a tumble of shredded seaweed, creamy avo, and jewel-like pomegranate seeds. Small but en pointe. You order your food via the QR-coded app and a slip of the finger meant we accidentally ordered two of the Agedashi Tofu, deep-fried tofu sitting in a tempura-style broth – luckily this tofu is worth ordering twice. Next time I’d also order two Onigiri umeboshi: a rice ball with the sour salty Japanese plum. Taste bud tripping umeboshi. Lip-smacking! Another tofu dish arrived – the Hiyayakko: Cold tofu and dashi sauce with green shiso, myoga, and ginger. Delicious. We also ordered a side order of ‘egg’ – simply a boiled egg (no silky jammy yolk – just a boiled egg) but did it taste great with their wasabi? Not that electric green paste squirted from a tube, but what tasted like hon wasabi – hon means “real” or “genuine” in Japanese, so it’s made with the real wasabi rhizome and not horseradish. A boiled egg never tasted more hip-hip-hooray!
The first thing you notice about the interior at Hakati is all the saké bottles on the walls, as well as an extensive saké menu. So, it would be foolish not to drink saké here, right? Instead of trying the most expensive glass at €18, we settled for the yin and the yang of a hot and cold pot of saké. Drunk from small ceramic bowls, it’s proof that the Japanese do everything with elegance. (We also sunk a delicious yuzu-brewed beer, Yuzuville from Brasserie de la Senne in Belgium, yuzu-licious!) The second thing I noticed was how many Japanese customers were present – always a good sign of authenticity, right? The grilled half-aubergine with jalapeño soy arrived loaded high with a shivering layer of shaved bonito and two teaspoons. Once we’d removed the shaved fish (pesky vegetarians!), we spooned into the flesh and had one of those aha moments – how can we replicate this at home? The silken flesh was like eating dessert – a savoury dessert. All I need to do is get some Binchotan charcoal and fire up the rooftop BBQ. Now if only this cruel summer would end and allow me access to that rooftop.
Hakata Senpachi
The Place: Directly opposite the business efficiency of the RAI sits this authentic gem of a Japanese izakaya.
The Space: You’ll notice the A4 printouts of the specials stuck randomly all over the place. You’ll also notice a well-worn interior that exudes no fuss, no hassle. Come as you are and sit where you can see the magic happening at the hibachi grill.
The Base: Bites start at €7 (edamame), skewers from €3.60 to €7.60, and ramen from €16. Expect to pay €50-60 pp for a good vegetarian option.
The Face: Lots of Japanese, a sprinkling of locals, and a few vegetarians.
The Ace: SAKE! SAKE! SAKE! If you haven’t tried it, this is your chance.
The Veg: Unlike other establishments, you’d find us going back for more. More tofu, please… and we haven’t sampled any of the ramen yet! Watch this space.
Opening Times: Tues-Sat 17:00-22:00, Sun 17:00-21:00, Mon closed.
Images from hakatasenpachi.com, Hakata Senpachi
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