The Mexican wave in Amsterdam

By Andy Fenner

There’s been a good surge of Mexican options in Amsterdam recently. And I’m here for it. There are few cravings that grip me as tightly as the taco craving. But to call Mexican food tacos is to call Italian food pasta. It’s inaccurate and it’s doing an incredible, diverse, rich food culture a massive injustice.

Luckily for us, there are a few stellar restaurants taking it upon themselves to educate Amsterdam on real Mexican food. Let’s begin in the North, where you’ll find two of the very best around. The first, Coba, looks like something dreamed up from the props team on the set of From Dusk Till Dawn. Instead of a hostess, you sort-of expect Tarantino himself to show you to your table.

There are big hats. Big dresses. Big carpets hanging on big walls.

Luckily, there’s big flavour too. Dishes are refined, massaged to fit in with the gorgeously designed space. An often-changing menu keeps things interesting but with real-deal corn tortillas you can rest easy that whatever they’re putting in them…you’re in good hands. (Or on top of them in fact. The tostadas are next level and are the perfect showcase of the contemporary interpretation of Mexican flavours that embodies Coba.) Expect things like guacamole with black beans and oyster mushrooms, topped with chives, peanuts and salsa macha. Make no mistake though, this restaurant absolutely honours the traditions that Mexican food is built on, as is evident by the fact that you can order a bowl of chapulines (fried grasshoppers) with your artisanal Mezcal.

*Coba owner Mirthe, with her favourite agave spirit. @coba.taqueria*

*Tacos de Birria de Cabarcon Consomé, @coba.taqueria*

Nearby, you’ll find the equally impressive Bacalar. As if the Mexican Food Ambassador to Flavour embarked on a mission to show you the diversity of their cuisine, this could not be more different from Coba. Here, a neon sign ushers you into a repurposed industrial space. 90s hip hop blares into a room that houses vintage furniture and a completely mismatched collection of trinkets. Somehow, it comes together beautifully which is a good metaphor for the way dishes are created in the open-plan kitchen. Things work, both as textures and as flavours. There is a balance in all of the dishes, an achievement made possible by a skilled and focused team. Do not let the laid-back staff and the seemingly carefree approach fool you – this is an ambitious restaurant. Stand out dishes are the famous octopus taco but look out for the Taco De Lengua – you need a lot of skill (and patience) to cook beef tongue and in this kitchen is handled expertly. The result, a braised, stocky gelatinous cut of meat is perfect for the contrasting hits of acidity and heat that make up this showstopper. The sleeper hit is the cauliflower ceviche, which is a vegetarian dish to convert anyone expecting fish. Choose from a massive beer selection or, if you’re up for it, knock back a cocktail from an impressive list.

*Bacalar interior. Image @bacalar.amsterdam*

*Octopus Taco. Image @bacalar.amsterdam*

Back in Amsterdam, specifically in the East, you’ll find a Mexican restaurant that is punching way above its weight. Perhaps without the hype of the above options, Local Dealer is as good. Here, the family-run business acts as a perfect stage to showcase their love for Mexican cuisine but it is also unapologetic about working some global influences into the offering. Their ceviches, for example, incorporate ingredients like peanuts, mango, passion fruit and edamame to balance flavours and add textures. It’s inventive cooking, while maintaining a respect for the Mexican backbone. Another perfect example of this is their lamb barbacoa. Here, the Oaxacan-style of slow-cooking lamb covered with soaked banana leaves is honoured, but contemporary garnishes like pickled carrots and almonds elevate it into new territory – a perfect marriage of old-school and new-age Mexican cooking.

Jeroen Lens, aka Geronimo Paquito, is the man in charge and his love and enthusiasm for this style of cooking is as much obvious, as it is infectious.

“There’s an assumption that tacos are cheap,” he kicks off. “But comparing prices in Mexico to prices here is misleading. Like with any type of food, you get good quality ingredients and bad quality ingredients. If people have travelled in Mexico and eaten cheap tacos they probably had the latter. If you go to really good places in Mexico you’ll discover that they have the same dedication to sourcing ingredients that we do. As a result, people pay more at those venues. Likewise, we do not cut any corners here. We take huge pride in the way we curate suppliers and huge pride in the time and effort we prepare every dish..”

He’s right. A glance through Local Dealer’s menu sees items such as tomatillos, epazote, chillies and lots more. I ask about how they get their hands on these ingredients.

*Ceviche Jalisco. Image from @localdealerfoodinc*

*Local Dealer owner Jeroen Lens , aka Geronimo Paquito. @localdealerfoodinc*

“It’s not easy,” Jeroen admits.” But we are now working with a local farmer in Friesland who is a great supporter of ours. We have made plans to work together on planning what he can grow specifically for us.”

With any other restaurant – indeed with any other style of cuisine – this type of relationship gets applauded in media headlines. How many times have we seen that glorified shot of the high-profile chef standing in a pair of boots with a farmer who has been elevated from supplier, in order to (deservedly, rightfully) share the spotlight.? In typically understated fashion, this just seems to be the norm at Local Dealer. There is a willingness to improve, a willingness to squeeze flavour out of every ingredient.

“Everything takes time,” Jeroen says, simply. “And our menu reflects this. The prices are not cheap but we are completely comfortable with them, because we know the time we have spent on every time, every step of the process. What arrives in front of a customer has been considered carefully and has been conceptualised with the guest in mind. Our hope is that they understand that. Our brand might be big and bold and colourful but the intention is deliberate and something we take seriously”

Taking what they do seriously, without taking themselves seriously. This seems to be the theme running through a restaurant, that embodies absolutely everything that a good version of one should be. Committed, focused, skilled but having a hell of a lot of fun getting food to the customer.