Ceviche and hotdoctopus at Sjefietshe
By Andy Fenner
Van Ostadestraat 1, 1072 SL Amsterdam
BOOK NOWIn a world celebrating generalists, there is something to be said for the hyper-focused trend emerging, which sees chefs and restaurateurs focus their attention on one single offering. Of course, this comes with a risk, as said offering needs to be executed really, really well. It also runs the risk of limiting the venue. If an idea is good…that’s great…but how many times can someone come back for that single thing?
The team behind Sjefietshe seems to understand all of this. And a lot more. I mean, opening a cevicheria is about as niche as it gets. It’s like a niche inside a niche on top of a niche. Next to a niche. But the ceviche on offer here is varied and offers complexity. Yes, there are big nods to South America but the menu also offers Japanese and Thai versions. Indeed, the ceviche definition is held loosely, while still paying respect to the dish, by branching out into other raw-food-especially-fish prep techniques. A redfish crudo, for example, sits alongside a tuna tiradito. (Both are delicious btw.)
The dressings and garnishes on the ceviche keep things interesting and allow some room for experimenting on what is, essentially, a very compact and precise menu.
With the sharp, acidic hits of the raw fish, mains are slightly toned down and begin to incorporate even more South American flavours. The octopus with chimichurri, is a shining example of how food can fit into a themed restaurant without being strictly in line with the heritage of said theme. It’s a clever way to add depth. Likewise, shrimp croquettes are made to be dipped into a smoky Mezcal sauce. So, there are elements of South America everywhere, while not being purely ceviche.
Sjefietshe is one of those restaurants that is in danger of being written off as ‘hipster’. Yes, it has a cool logo. Yes, it has tattooed staff and neon signage and, yes, it rides the high-brow-low-brow wave. But to spend time on these things alone is unfair to the food that is being cooked and served with deserved pride and understated skill. Instead, perhaps they can also just be indicators of a restaurant that shows immense consideration for everything they do. I like it. A lot. I like the fact that they have clearly paid attention to the look and feel of the brand. It is a personality and it shines through. Perhaps this is best illustrated by their (now signature) hotdoctopus. I mean…an octopus tentacle, inside a roll. That’s definitely just a gimmick. Right? Well, no. It’s actually immensely well curated. Perfectly braised and grilled, the octopus sits inside a perfect brioche loaf and is dressed with good pickles, chives and mayo. It’s…whacky AF. But it’s also kinda brilliant. It would not be on the menu if this team didn’t think it was delicious. And it is.
If you want food that is made by a team that takes food seriously, but does not seem to take life too seriously, then have it here. Have it in an unfussy venue that drips cool and offers good wine, beer and cocktails. Have it in a room that is run by friendly people, with genuine smiles. Have it in a restaurant that you want to return back to, as soon as you leave.
Have it here.
Sjefietshe
The Place: South American seafood. Fun. Uncomplicated.
The Base: €60 – 70 pp
The Face: Unpretentious cool.
The Ace: Ceviche and balanced cocktails.
The Veg: The sides at Sjefietshe are seriously good and the entire menu is made to be shared anyway. So, think miso aubergine with spinach and sesame oil, or roasted cauliflower with spicy salsa rojo and za’atar.
Opening Hours: 7 days a week, 17:30-01:00
Images from sjefietshe.nl, © Sjefietshe
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