Palate-pleasing adventures at VRR.

By Neil Roake

Conradstraat 471 1018 NE Amsterdam

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The historic building that currently houses VRR was once an urban ship shed and, later, the renowned restaurant Rosa & Rita. In a possible tribute to Prince, it has now been renamed Vormalig Rosa Rita (VRR). A clear ode to music, the presence of large JBL speakers hanging from the beams indicates the owners’ deep appreciation for sound. The ambient chatter within the magnificent vaulted warehouse, accompanied by background tunes, instantly gives VRR a cool vibe reminiscent of Brooklyn or a buzzing party.

On one end of the venue, you’ll find the open industrial kitchen, helmed by the duo Sander Overeinder and Teun op ‘t Root. On the other end, there’s the in-house baker AS, which had to relocate from its remarkable old church building in the West. (Don’t miss the AS’s Sourdough bread and the salted Warmond butter)  Equally more-ish are the gougères, those Frenchy cheesy choux pastries that magically dissolve in your mouth. These small bites offer the perfect opportunity to soak in the buzzy atmosphere while grinning over a glass or two of Billy Cider from Normandy or a refreshing Spritz Aperitivo (Spritz cocktails are definitely having a moment). The venue boasts eye-catching eye-candy, including an impressively long counter bar (I suggest aiming for the bar stools on my next visit) and a pleasant curated wine shop, featuring exceptional graphic design labels (I have a habit of choosing wines based on their labels – not always the best idea).

Just as we were finishing the last chunks of sourdough, the grilled red chicory with ajo blanco sauce arrived—a timely accompaniment. The almond and olive oil cream, blitzed, has now become a go-to staple at home (on a hot day, I might experiment by serving it chilled with green grapes, inspired by the Spanish tradition). While gnocchi can often disappoint with their rubbery texture, at VRR they’re super-stars, especially when paired with the carrot and shiitake sauce – (they should bottle that sauce!!). The citrus beans and fresh cheese dish, however, didn’t captivate us as much. Nevertheless, we were still thoroughly loving life, sipping Yves Amberg Pinot Noir and ordering other surprise glasses of natural wine. (VRR has established itself as a frontrunner in the natural wine scene, making it an excellent destination for a palate-pleasing adventure.)

For my next visit, I plan to gather a group of friends and take over the large table in the far corner; those guests seemed to be having the time of their lives. Is that Purple Rain I hear in the background?

Restaurant VRR

The Place: Modern Dutch
The Space: Vaulted historic industrial building
The Base: €46 for 3 courses
The Face: Romantic couples, Jovial groups, Hip and happening smiley faces.
The Ace: They get the mix right – food, wine, vibe, easy-going service. It feels really good.
The Veg: We opted for the vegetarian options, which were plentiful and delicious. Fish enthusiasts will rejoice at the sight of the raw pike-perch with Kohlrabi (which we noticed dramatically hanging from metal hooks in the kitchen) or the whole BBQ red gurnard accompanied by a zesty gremolata. However, the menu at VRR is built around Dutch ingredients and thankfully changes frequently. I can only hope that those delightful gougères remain a constant presence.
Opening Times: Tues-Sun from 18:00

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Images from Neil Roake