Kaap & Tein: clever concept, exquisite dining

By Andy Fenner

Zeedijk 43A, 1012 AR Amsterdam

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A clever use of space splits this restaurant literally down the middle, revealing an open courtyard and black bar area on one side, and a minimalist, stark white dining room on another. The idea, it seems, is that the darker area faces the Zeedijk district and the white space faces Geldersekade. It’s a clever concept, as this part of town really is dominated by tourists. The owners recognise that but still want to offer something for the neighbourhood community. This is their answer to a difficult proposition.

The courtyard is a memorable one, wedged between two buildings and accessible via a tiny opening. Here, you can enjoy quintessential items like bitterballen, croquettes or toasted sandwiches. But you can also lean into something a bit more exotic, like a smoked salmon salad, dressed liberally in kimchi and tossed with green asparagus spears. Beers are plentiful, with a bunch of them available on both tap and in the bottle. The place is so good for sinking a few cold ones, in fact, that the Gulpener team produces a Weizen and Blond beer exclusively for this venue. A good, compact wine list offers support, with a few by-the-glass options too. 

Dinner is where the venue gets far more ambitious. In the serene white room, with some tables boasting canal views, things are ramped up. Bisque is given a lift with Thai basil. Steak gets an umami bomb with black garlic gravy. White asparagus and hollandaise can be eaten as is, or supplemented with ham or salmon. And dessert? Their Crème brûlée, laced with mint, is arguably a signature. 

It’s not easy to offer something for everyone. It’s not easy to be the “best of both worlds”. But with a considered concept and hospitable staff, this place manages it and manages it well. 

Kaap en Tein

The Place: Unique. Dark and moody on one side. Light and breezy on the other.    
The Base: €50 – 60 pp 
The Face: As you’d expect in this area, plenty of tourists. But, reassuringly, peppered with local neighbourhood business owners.  
The Ace: The combination lunch (soup, salad and croquette) is a great way to get in a convenient lunch if you’re cruising around in the area. Cold beer optional. 
The Veg: The croquettes above come in a veg version, as do the bitterballen, which is cool if you need to show a visitor some local fare. For more substantial dishes, vegetables like artichoke, aubergine and sweet potato get centre stage.
Opening Hours: 7 days a week 11:00-23:00 

Images from kaapentein.nl, © Kaap & Tein

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