Journey through India with 29 Spices
By Neil Roake
Elandsgracht 36, 1016 TW Amsterdam, Netherlands
BOOK NOWThe first thing you notice about this little restaurant tucked along the busy Elandsgracht is its fire-engine red shopfront and awning—the few tables and chairs outside begging for rays of sunshine to welcome some pavement eating and people-watching. (Another reason to look forward to spring.) Step inside, and it’s an unassuming place—welcoming with its casualness and the warmth of its owners.
The sharing plates craze drives me a little nuts. What’s the use of arriving at a restaurant hungry and leaving hungry? On the other hand, the Indian kitchen has the sharing concept sorted; generous bowls of silky curries, baskets of garlic naan to rip apart and scoop, and raita to cool down the spice. Whereas most Indian restaurants have a tendency to have a menu as wide as the Ganges, 29 Spices manages to condense this cuisine into concise temptation. Hop up and down the vast Indian continent and dip into a few of the 29 states along the way, taste their house masala, freshly ground daily with, you guessed it, 29 spices. Rahul and Dipak, are also in the kitchen as chefs, which means you are being looked after with dishes made to order. If you arrive early enough, you’re bound to pick up a conversation with one of them and be offered some recommendations before your first sip of that ice-cold Kingfisher Lager.
Expect classic Indian riffs on Tikka Masala, Gosht, Kormas, and Jalfrezes, but sticking to the regular curry and bread combos would be a mistake when you can uncover lesser-known gems like Navratna Korma (nine different veg and nuts in a mild curry sauce), Chicken Kolhapuri, prawn Mango, and Bhuna Gosht (Gosht refers to tender meat, cooked for a long time, in this instance, lamb). We started our Indian journey with a chat with Rahul and then some Delhi-inspired chaat—in this case, samosas deconstructed, then smothered in a blanket of delicious tamarind and coriander chutney, yoghurt, and crunchy sev. When it comes to street foods in India, pani puri will definitely hit the spot—crispy orbs of semolina pastry, stuffed with a spicy potato mixture. You get to fill up these balls of deliciousness with tart tamarind juice and pop the whole thing in your mouth. It’s like the sound effects and flashing lights of a pinball machine going off in your mouth. A no-brainer order really. They’re as good as you think they’ll be… only better! The pani-puri arrive sprinkled with one of my favourite Indian spices, Chaat Masala with Amchoor (dried mango powder) which adds an additional tangy, sour zing! I’ll definitely be back for these! (Follow their gram for updates.)
Growing up in an Indian community in South Africa, we used to call our next dish ‘wagon wheels’. But here at 29 Spices, they use the more traditional name of Dal Wada made with chana dal. (Chana dal is derived from brown chickpeas that have been husked and split.) Lovely nutty taste and super crispy, they’re served with punchy coriander chilli with coconut chutney. Indian cuisine is often oversimplified as merely being excessively hot or spicy or both. This is the misconception that 29 Spices addresses by presenting the rich diversity and complexity of flavours present across the 29 diverse states of the Indian subcontinent. From the creamy richness of Mughlai cuisine to the coconut-rich South Indian dishes, the true essence of Indian cuisine lies in the intricate balance of spices, herbs, and textures that make each dish stand alone. Like the classic Mughlai dish we tried, Dal Makhani, made with black lentils (urad dal) and kidney beans simmered in a buttery tomato-based sauce finished with cream. Order plenty of naan bread and rice to mop this one up.
29 Spices is a place that you come to with friends or lovers or friends who become lovers, passing plates from one side of the table to the other without looking at each other. It’s the food that will only have eyes for you.
29 Spices
The Place: Casual Indian with excellent street food and lesser-known gems.
The Space: An intimate space on the bustling Elandsgraght. There’s a low table for 4 in the front where you can remove your shoes and eat traditionally at ground level. WARNING: May be hard on the knees, but totally worth it 🙂
The Base: Starters from €6, Street Food from €14,50 and main dishes from €16
The Face: Locals, groups of friends and tourists.
The Ace: Conversations with the chef-owners provide a personal touch. Order the pani-puri and thank me later.
The Veg: The Indian sub-continent is one of the most delicious for vegetarians and at 29 spices, your choices are vast and varied.
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs: 16:30 – 23:00, Fri to Sat: 12:00 – 23:00. Sun: 14:00 – 23:00
Images from 29spices.com, 29 Spices
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