Compartir: a laid-back vegetarian-friendly bistro
By Deepa Paul
Spaarndammerstraat 49, 1013 ST Amsterdam, Netherlands
BOOK NOWSandwiched between its more high-profile neighbours—the popular and rapidly gentrifying Westerpark, and flashier upstart Houthavens—the Spaarndammerbuurt might not be one of Amsterdam’s top-of-mind neighbourhoods. But when you find yourself there, you end up thinking to yourself—this is so lovely. How has it been flying under the radar this whole time? And why don’t I come here more often?
In the same way, restaurant and wine bar Compartir is emblematic of the neighbourhood: a low-profile gem wedged into a cosy slice of Spaarndammerstraat, the buurt’s main drag. A typically Amsterdam-sized space (read: small) means that you have a pretty good chance of being seated at the bar, all the better for intimate date nights.
Compartir’s menu features snacks and small-to-medium sharing plates with a warm, approachable bistro character and an appreciable attentiveness to seasonal shifts. To usher in oyster season, for example, we enjoyed a platter of freshly shucked Irish oysters with a Southern European touch, served with dried ham, taleggio cheese and olives. In a nod to the approach of autumn, the menu at the time of our visit offered seasonal produce tucked into comforting textures—creamy, rich, and warming.
Compartir originally opened as a vegetarian concept but has since expanded to offer one or two fish or meat dishes on its menu. Nevertheless, the majority of its menu—and its culinary heart—is still vegetarian, and that’s where it really shines. Our three small sharing plates ended up being delightfully flavourful and filling: pierogi filled with feta and pumpkin (and a welcome kick from Harissa); a lick-your-plate-clean creamed corn on a buttery celeriac mash with fried chanterelles and sorrel; and a spicy-sour, crunchy cauliflower with piccalilli and almond crème (decadent slivers of lardo optional).
However, it was the dessert that truly stole my heart: the tiniest brioche toasts perched atop a beurre noisette ice cream, a fig confiture (clearly meant to extend summer flavours), and a salty-sweet hazelnut crumble. Altogether, our meal struck a balance of flavour and delight in a modest, unassuming package—just like Compartir itself.
For a neighbourhood bistro, there are some lovely surprises in Compartir’s list of European wines—Georgian, Basque, Slovakian among them—and the selection of winemakers leans more contemporary than classic. But I like being offered unusual options, so after being lulled into comfort by the food, our second bottle of wine is a riskier choice. At Compartir, a nudge in the direction of the slightly unusual, left-of-bistro-field is done with reassuring friendliness—and as it turns out, always worth it.
Compartir
The Place: Laid-back, approachable bistro for vegetarian-friendly pops of flavour, European wines, and local neighbourhood vibes.
The Space: Casual and characteristically small (this is Amsterdam) so get ready to cozy up.
The Base: Small and medium sharing plates that skew vegetarian, wine list that leans towards natural and contemporary European winemakers.
The Face: Meet the neighbours—local, friendly, unassuming with a smile.
The Ace: In fine weather, grab the spindly wooden seats on the sidewalk and enjoy some prime people-watching al fresco.
The Veg: Six out of eight of the main plates (at the time of our visit) on the menu were vegetarian, with only one fish and one meat dish.
Opening Hours: Tues-Sat 17:30-00:00, Sun-Mon Closed
Images from compartirwijnbar.nl, Compartir
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