Everything just right with Swedish-Indonesian Kafe Kontrast
By Seger Abels
Ceintuurbaan 71 H, 1072 EW Amsterdam, Netherlands
BOOK NOWI may not be old enough to recall when ‘fusion restaurants’ were all the rage, but I’ve heard tales of their heyday. I picture a setting where I’m surrounded by badly done Japanese decor, contemplating ordering foie gras sushi or some other “French-Asian” concoction that doesn’t quite make sense. I think we can all agree that it’s good that those days are over.
Now, let’s talk about a ‘fusion’ restaurant that we’re grateful for, the Swedish-Indonesian restaurant that everyone seems to be buzzing about… Because, what happens when a Swedish chef (Ellinor Strinnholm), with years of experience in Paris and a stint at a Michelin-starred restaurant (Volmers), immerses herself in the culture of Indonesia, gaining a profound burst of inspiration? Magic unfolds!
Together with her team, Ellinor opened Kafé Kontrast, a charming French bistro-style spot situated right on Ceintuurbaan. Here, two contrasting cultures – Swedish and Indonesian – come together to embrace the Swedish concept of ‘lagom,’ meaning ‘just right’. And just right it is…and then some.
Kafé Kontrast serves up soul-soothing comfort fare, expertly crafted and served with finesse. The fusion of these two distinct culinary traditions yields a medley of exciting dishes: think pickled salmon infused with kaffir lime, alongside pandan and saffron bread, or Swedish mushrooms harmoniously paired with Indonesian tongseng curry. It’s a culinary marriage that defies expectations. It just works.
While the aforementioned dishes were staples at the restaurant’s inception, the menu is in a constant state of evolution. One standout is their ‘Kaya toast,’ swiftly becoming a favourite among patrons: thick slices of buttered brioche adorned with house-made kaya coconut-pandan jam, served with soft-poached eggs for dipping on the side.
Initially focusing on brunch, Kafé Kontrast soon expanded its offerings to include dinner. Presently, the boundary between brunch and dinner blurs, making it an all-day destination.
During our recent evening visit, we were enchanted by the ambience – soft lighting, flickering candles, and the ever-attentive staff serving up excellent natural wines. And yes, those wines are just as delightful during brunch hours.
Kafe Kontrast
The Place: Swedish-Indonesian fusion cuisine
The Space: A French bistro aesthetic infused with Scandinavian and Indonesian accents.
The Base: €60 pp
The Face: Welcoming to all, from the young trendsetters to seasoned diners.
The Ace: Don’t miss the brunch, but dinner is equally enticing.
The Veg: No problemo! Vegetarian options abound!
Opening Hours: Dinner Thurs – Sun 18:00-22:00. Brunch Sat – Sun 11:00-16:00
Images from kafekontrast.com, Kafe Kontrast
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